Includes sites accessed off the Quito-Santo Domingo road (1700m) (all close to San Miguel de Los Bancos ckm100): ALAMBI, BELLAVISTA, EL PAHUMA, MANGALOMA, MILPE, MILPE GARDEN, MILPE CIRCUIT, MINDO, MINDO LOMA, MIRADOR RIO BLANCO RESTUARANT, NONO-MINDO ROAD, PACHA QUIND, REFUGIO PAZ DE LAS ANTPITTAS, RESERVA LAS GRALARIAS, RIO SILANCHE, SACHATAMIA LODGE, SEPTIMO PARAISMO HOTEL, TANDAYAPA, TINALANDIA, VERDECOCHA, YANACOCHA. The full bird list for this area is below all the accounts. For notes and species lists seen by individual contributors, please see the seperate accounts of the same name.
This account deals with birding sites within 40km (24.85 miles) radius of the village of Mindo, (so covering an area of c.502,857ha) which is situated 7km S of the main Quito highway, on the NW foothills of Pichincha volcano, Pichincha province. As the vulture glides it is less than 40km to the far side of Quito, but by road nearly twice as far. The habitats range in altitude from 400m lowland forests at Rio Silanche to 4675m paramo of Pichincha volcano (above Yanacocha). In this small but highly diverse region there have been 676 species of birds recorded! See the full list at the bottom of this account.
Unfortunately this areas forests are not without their threats, and forest clearance here is continuing at an alarming rate. The perceived view of foreigners that this area is a ecotourist magnet and that therefore the environment is well protected for this purpose is false. Although there are many protected areas, these are mainly private and of small size. The total amount of protected forest amounts to only a small fraction of the whole and the protected areas will suffer the effects of fragmentation if present trends continue.
Some examples of the scale of forest destruction I have come across may illustrate the point. The forest at Rio Silanche used to stretch from the (then new) highway at Pedro Vicente Maldonado to the reserve some 15km N, at least 22,500ha. This has all been completely cleared, except for the 70ha reserve, in the last 8 years! Species such as Banded Ground-Cuckoo which used to occur have gone and doubtless many other species will follow. The magnificent 700ha Mangaloma forest is very much like Rio Silanche used to be. This forest is also imminently threatened and will probably suffer the same fate, since only 200ha are in a reserve and the other owners are even now clearing their forests (the noise of several chainsaws was very evident on my visits). These owners are willing to sell (according to the Mangaloma Reserve owners) but funds need to be found fast. (Contact details for the foundation that owns the reserve are given in the account here and the separate account for this reserve). At Mindo, when I visited 10 years ago, forest in some parts came right to the edge of the village. On recent visits I have noticed this is no longer the case and nearly all the forest on the lower slopes around the village has gone (and the village has doubled in size). The forested slopes across from Reserva Las Gralarias are also being cleared, and during my stay new patches were seen to be created daily across the valley. Even near the reserve, on the far side, a farmer has cleared the trees and is grazing cows.
ALAMBI 250ha 1500m
Non-residents $5 fee to bird
The Alambi lodge is very conveniently situated 5km west from Tandayapa (on the old Nono-Mindo road) and less than 0.5km from the main Quito highway. It is signed at KM52, and has guesthouse, dormitory and camping facilities situated in forest along the Alambi river. The main Quito road bridge over the Alambi is a short walk from the lodge and a good place to find White-capped Dipper. The hummingbird feeders are reliable for Western Emerald and White-necked Jacobin.
The owner is Tania, and contact by email is to her brother at
Website www.rioalambi.com
BELLAVISTA LODGE 00º15’N 78º38’W
Lies at the top of the Tandayapa Ridge at 2000-2200m.
Take the turnoff from the main Quito Occidental highway on the left at KM62 to 63, if leaving Quito, right if coming in, where the sign says Bellavista, the road is called Miraflores follow this stone road up into the hills to the T junction with the old Nono-Mindo road there is then a sign saying turn left, it is then 1.2km from Miraflores T junction to Bellavista lodge. All this road is excellent birding, with extensive forest all around, though trails are few. This road can be birded for several km until the junction with the old Nono-Mindo, the birding along there is also good. At the junction going left will lead to the lodge within a couple of km.
EL PAHUMA ORCHID RESERVE
At c.KM45 on the main Quito road is a good site for White-tailed Hillstar (JL). Park at the restuarant and cross the road, go into the wooden building and to the balcony where the hummingbird feeders are and you should see them quickly.
MANGALOMA (see separate account for bird list and personal accounts) 700ha (200ha reserve) 730m primary lowland forest
Fundación Imaymana PRE-BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL
THIS MAGNIFICENT RESERVE NEEDS YOUR SUPPORT. THE RESERVE COMPRISES 200HA OF A 700HA BLOCK OF FOREST, BUT UNFORTUNATELY THE OTHER FOREST OWNERS ARE RAPIDLY CLEARING THEIR FOREST. THEY ARE PREPARED TO SELL AND FUNDACIÓN IMAYMANA IS EXTREMELY KEEN TO PURCHASE AS MUCH FOREST AS POSSIBLE, BUT THEY LACK FUNDS. If all this forest could be saved it would represent the largest single such foothill block of forest in Pichincha province and the last refuge in Pichincha for such birds as Banded Ground-Cuckoo and Long-wattled Umbrellabird. If you can help please contact the foundation (they have English speaking people).
Take the main road from Quito through the town of San Miguel de Los Bancos and shortly after between KM104-105 there is a well signed right-hand turning to Pachijal. Take this unsurfaced road and follow for 3km, then there is a left turn which goes down another unsurfaced road/track for another 3km. After this there is the entrance lane which continues straight ahead, and for this section 4-wheel-drive is required. This lane is 2km long and reaches a large bamboo gate first and then a further few hundred metres the main gate which is signed Mangoloma Reserve. The owners will only allow pre-book and paid visits ($10 each), pay at Canopy, which is signed right off the main Quito road (outbound) at Miraflores (opposite to the turning to Bellavista Research Centre road) at KM64 (just after Bellavista turn off on other side). Follow the signs saying Tocanopy on this road a short way then take a left turning to Canopy.
This site has the best and most extensive forest in lowland Pichincha, and the bird list in this virtually unstudied area is already well over 300 species. To visit this private reserve you must prebook, and entry fee is $5 each. There is basic accommodation $15 each a night.
Banded Ground-Cuckoo, Long-wattled Umbrellabird and other great rarities occur here.
Tel. 084798986 (Agustina Arcos) or for tucanopy 099665468
Email.
MILPE (see separate account for bird list) 00º01’841’’S 78º51’989’’W Primary lowland/foothill rain forest and regenerating forest, c.100ha, 1165m entry $5
As with Rio Silanche, this reserve is managed by the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation it is remnant forest and also supports many choco endemics, but with slightly different species present due to the differences in elevation. The approach road to this reserve provides some very good birding and time should be taken to do so. The approach road turn-off from the main Quito road is at KM91. Milpe adjoins a large area of private forest.
The entrance is well signed about 5km down the good dirt approach road. From the toilet block you can follow the path to a picnic area, where there is a sign showing the 4 trails, which vary in length from a couple of hours to the longest which can take most of the day.
Mindo Cloudforest Foundation
Tel. 59393551949 or 59362606227
Fax 59322241038
Email
Website www.mindocloudforest.org
MILPE GARDEN 12ha
No entry fee but a $5 contribution is appreciated
A short way further along the road that Milpe reserve is on is another private reserve called Milpe Garden. This site has excellent forest and very good wide well kept trails.
MILPE CIRCUIT
Even further along the Milpe road is another private reserve, where a lodge is being built, no further details.
MINDO 00º02’S 78º48’W 1300m
The village of Mindo provides excellent opportunities to bird within easy walking distance. The turn-off to the village is at KM78 along the Quito-San Miguel de Los Bancos road, and it is 7km along down this road to the village. There are now many places to stay and places to eat. The village is now a lively, trendy favoured backpackers destination and well set up for tourists. There is a bus to the village, but this only runs once a day, other buses will drop you at the turn-off on the main road.
As the road enters town, take the right turn opposite the church and follow this a short way over the first bridge over the River Mindo, continue along this road for a couple of km until the road passes over a second larger river. Here is a good place to look for Sunbittern, White-capped Dipper, Green'fronted Lancebill and Torrent Tyrannulet. After dark travel back the same way to town, less than a km back stop where a tall cliff follows the right side of the road and drops away on left to pasture. Here look up the cliff side for Lyre-tailed Nightjar which forages in short flights along the cliff. At the town square there are trails leading to the river and private trails such as the Yellow House Trail which you can pay a small fee to bird. Returning back to the main Quito road, just at the junction of the Mindo turnoff is a tiny police station. Look on the wires about here under the street lights for Black-and-white Owl.
MINDO LOMA (see separate account for bird list) 40ha
This reserve is well signed off the main Quito road at KM74. Accommodation is being built, and there is already an operating cafe with excellent hummingbird feeders. This small reserves forest adjoins other much large areas of forest and birding is good. There are trails through the forest, one leading steeply up to a 60m waterfall. It is one of the best sites to look for Black Solitaire (only site maybe) and Glittering Green Tanager.
MIRAFLORES
(Charles Hesse 20th-22nd February, 2006. See separate account for species seen)
This is an excellent birding area less than 2 hours by bus from Quito. Buses leave from the Flor de Valle terminal in Quito and cost about $1.50. I stayed at a friends place in the tiny village of Miraflores (1,900m) 30 minutes before Mindo at about km 65 but there are many places to stay in Mindo. In fact this town seems to have grown up on birding. There is nowhere to stay in Miraflores as yet but the Arcos family are building accomodation. They have also built a 'Canopy tour', a slide through the trees. There is great birding on the property with many interesting species of tanager, hummingbird and antpitta. Giant and Moustached Antpitta were both heard nearby as was Toucan Barbet. Walking around the town of Mindo and the several km stretch of from the main road down into town can also be productive. Hitching along the roads is fairly easy.
I saw 125 species including 36 lifers
MIRADOR RIO BLANCO RESTUARANT, SAN MIGUEL DE LOS BANCOS
From Quito, as you enter town the restaurant is within the first hundred metres or so on the left. This is the most pleasant place to eat and stay in this otherwise ugly main road town. The food is very good and fairly cheap and the view of the Rio Blanco gorge if not too cloudy is spectacular. The other main attraction here are the numerous bird feeders (and short forest trails) which attract a wide range of species, similar to those found at Milpe, but often much easier to see. On my numerous visits the best day I have had there we saw the following species, all within a couple of hours Pale-mandibled Aracari, Black-striped Sparrow, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Black-winged Saltator, Green Honeycreeper, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Thick-billed and Orange-bellied Euphonias and a host of tanagers including Flame-faced, Silver-throated, Emerald, Blue-necked, Rufous-throated, Palm, Blue-grey, White-lined, Lemon-rumped, Golden and several hummingbirds including White-whiskered Hermit, Rufous-tailed Hummer, Green Thorntail and Green-crowned Woodnymph.
NONO-MINDO ROAD (see YANACOCHA & UPPER NONO-MINDO ROAD & LIST separate account for bird list)
Now an ecotourist route (Tandayapa Ecoroute and Mirador Ecoroute) which offers official protection, this famous road has many of the best birding places along it including BELLAVISTA, MINDO, PACHA QUIND, SACHATAMIA, SEPTIMO PARAISMO HOTEL, TANDAYAPA LODGE and VERDECOCHA, with sites such as YANACOCHA and others accessed via it (see rest of this account). It used to link Nono to Mindo but as Quito has expanded (so that Nono will soon be a suburb) links Quito to Mindo. A small section of the old road, just before the Mindo turn-off has been incorporated into the new highway, so the old road appears to stop at the new highway before reaching Mindo. The last section of the old road from the new highway to Mindo is now paved. Access from the Quito end is either via Avinida Occidental n end (on outskirts) where there is a turning (left heading out, requiring turning back on the in-bound highway to access) onto Machala Road (there is a sign across the highway saying Preservemos la Naturaleza). Follow Machala Road up, and this becomes the Nono-Mindo road (or for Yanacocha take the right hand turn above Nono through the gate, following the signs). An easier alternative is to leave Quito, passing the second (and last) pay toll, only a short way past this at KM26 is a left turn onto a unsurfaced road which is signed Nono-Mindo Ecotourist Route, follow the Ecotourist Route signs.
Birding is good anywhere along this road, though the best forest is in the mid-section between the turn-off for Yanacocha and Bellavista. Under the new designation reforestation along the route is taking place in some parts, and theoretically at least no more forest should be felled. The terrain is mountainous (between 1500m (Tandayapa) and 2750m (Nono area) with the road following one side of a steep and impressively forested valley from Quito, before crossing the Alambi river at Tandayapa village and climbing the opposite hillside towards Bellavista. The road continues to the junction of Miraflores road (Bellavista Research Centre road which descends to the main Quito highway). Carrying straight on past this junction leads eventually to a few scattered houses of Santa Rosa, the road then quickly descends to the Quito highway in a couple of km and emerges very close to the Mindo turn-off (KM78).
PACHA QUIND 130ha
$5 entrance fee no visits before 10.00 in morning!
Less than a couple of km below Bellavista lodge on the old Nono-Mindo road, is Tony Nunnery’s private reserve. It is 3.2km from the Miraflores T junction with the old Nono-Mindo road to Tony’s. It is unsigned and the path to the house is very concealed, if uncertain ask at Bellavista lodge. This 8 year old, 130ha reserve is excellent for hummingirds, but there are also many trails. The reserve is very close to or adjoins Bellavista’s land and lower down there is another 400ha reserve, and also the Mindo-Nambillo Protection Forest of 19,200ha.
Volunteers are required to help with forest restoration work, free lodging is provided, but food and meals are not. Volunteers are expected to work 3 hours a day on the project.
Of the 366 species recorded, 43 are hummingbirds, probably the highest total anywhere?
REFUGIO PAZ DE LAS ANTPITTAS (see separate account for personal accounts)00º01’193’’N 78º42’433’’W 1780-1927m, 120ha (70ha forest), primary forest patch degraded in some marginal areas, entrance fee $10 each
From the main road coming from Quito, turn left at KM66 and follow for 4km along the Mindo-Nanegalito road. Unfortunately the reserve is not signed with a name, but there is a large tourist ‘do and don’t’ board in English, keep an eye out for this and park there. There is a small food place, souvenir stall and house and these are owned by the same people. Obviously for the Cock-of-the-Rock lek and the antpittas you need to arrive before dawn, and preferably pre-booked. The place has only been going 9 months (July 2006).
This is a unique place because of the unique Ecuadorian who created the reserve. Nowhere else in the world can you experience a man calling out 3 species of antpitta, which he does using their individual names. Maria is a Giant Antpitta, Willy and Esmereldas are Yellow-breasted Antpittas, and there are also Moustached Antpittas. Angel Paz worked for the logging company that was logging in his area, but he wanted to save the forest on his families 60ha, as he went about his work he noticed he antpittas and tried to bring them into the open with meat scraps. Of course being antpittas they disappeared as soon as they could, however Angel noticed if he landed the food right at the antpittas feet it would quickly take it before disappearing. He worked on this for 2 or more months until he could get them to come at his call. They now hop out of cover right into the open of the path and follow him to the waiting amazed audience of birders. Most times 3 species should appear, though the shyer Moustached sometimes gets bullied away by the smaller Yellow-breasted (as happen on my first visit). But there are other special birds to see here besides the antpitta circus. It is probable that the first birds seen will be the amazing Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek, where presently 8 males display. Beautiful Jays, while uncommon, are sometimes seen too. At the hummingbird feeders, White-bellied Woodstar can be identified by its distinctive wing drone even before being seen and Purple-bibbed Whitetip can sometimes be seen.
At present this small patch of forest has plenty to offer, but without some effort on the Paz families part to extend the reserve the special birds could gradually be lost as the remaining forest becomes more fragmented and the reserve more isolated. It is to be hoped they will work with other families in the area to continue the good work.
RESERVA LAS GRALARIAS (see separate account for bird list)
Primary montane cloud forest and regenerating pasture/forest, 225ha, 1,800-2,100m accommodation at 2000m
This is an excellent relatively new private reserve (1998), aimed primarily at nature conservation, and which deliberately provides only for pre-booked individuals and small groups with personal friendly service, it is not therefore signed from the main road. Accommodation for 12 people is currently provided by the owner, Jane Lyons, with more visitor accommodation being built. The reserve is 225ha with some land recently purchased (2006) and there are currently 10.85km of signed well-maintained trails with more being developed. Contact details, costs and bookings can be found on the website.
Though there are many sought after species at this excellent reserve, some are easier to see at other places, but since pre-booking is mandatory here, groups tend to come for more than just one night, even if they do not do all their birding on the reserve. This allows more time to look around. The advantages of this reserve is that it is very quiet, few people on the well maintained trails means a better chance of seeing shy species and that is certainly true here for antpittas, guans and especially the usually difficult to find Dark-backed Wood-Quail. There are several good areas for antpittas close to the accommodation (within 10 minutes for Giant, Moustached and Yellow-breasted species), especially on Guan Gulch and Señior Tim’s Trail. Moustached Antpitta occurs in several areas, near the bottom of Puma Trail being a second place, and a second area for Giant is on Antpitta Trail. Señior Tim’s Trail is also the best places to see the wood-quails, at dawn and dusk on the track, though they can be heard widely about the reserve. The Sickle-winged Guan is easily found on Parrot’s Hill Trail close to Guan Gulch, though it to can be found almost anywhere.
The seasonal Crested Quetzal can be heard from the house, around the Sister’s Loop Trail and the top of Puma Trail, Golden-headed Quetzal is best looked for on Nunbird Ridge and Peccary Trail. Masked Trogon is common. Powerful Woodpecker is often seen along the top trails. Golden-winged Manakin can be found along Brothers Trail and Antpitta Trail. Bronze-Olive Pygmy-Tyrant can be looked for at the lower entrance gate and on Antpitta Trail. These lower trails are the places for Scaled and Orange-breasted Fruit-eaters and Green-fronted Lancebill is best searched for along streams in the lower section particularly along Lucy’s Creek Trial.
The toucans, mountain-toucans and Toucan Barbet can occur virtually anywhere, with the higher elevations being best for Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan. Parrot family species can likewise be encountered anywhere, but views of flyover birds are often frustratingly prevented by terrain or foliage. Woodcreepers and furnariids although generally reasonably common all about, can take some finding. The many and busy hummingbird feeders are a real attraction with 14 or more species easily seen, some not so easy to come by elsewhere.
Yellow-faced Grassquit and Yellow-bellied Siskin are best found in front of the wooden workers quarters near the road between the 2 gates. The former is scarce but the siskin is fairly frequent.
Jane also runs Mindo Bird Tours, which has 2 full-time English-speaking guides and private transport for small and large groups and provides tour-led excursions and trips not just in the local area but throughout South America, including the Galapagos Islands.
www.mindobirds.com.ec
RIO SILANCHE (see separate account for bird list)00º08’700’’N 79º08’490’’W 417m
The remnant forest here is managed by the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation and supports many of the chocó endemics. Sadly the forest here which used to cover well over 22,500ha and stretched unbroken from the main road to the reserve has all been cleared in the last 8 years and this is continuing today, leaving only this small reserve. Many good species have already been lost from the area but birding is still very good. There are 3 trails, 2 loop trails on the side of the visitor centre and one across the dirt track. This superb reserve lies at km127 along the main road from Quito (just after the town of Pedro Vicente Maldonado) and is 6km down a dirt road to the N (right). There is a signed car park and track leading to the 30m high canopy viewing tower (a substantial steel and concrete structure). Entry fee, T-shirts and checklists can be bought from the house/administration facility located at the base of the tower.
There is a trail from the base of the tower that goes in a loop with a further longer loop off of it. There are other trails located outside the car park. Turn left and walk a short way along the dirt track, there are barbwire gates on both sides which gives access to the short loop trails.
Mindo Cloudforest Foundation
Tel. 59393551949 or 59362606227
Fax 59322241038
Email
Website www.mindocloudforest.org
SACHATAMIA LODGE
This birders lodge is well located and signed on the main road just before the turn off for Mindo village (about KM78). It has a little forest of its own, but the main attraction is surely the ease of access to all the surrounding sites mentioned in this account.
SEPTIMO PARAISMO HOTEL
Take the signed turning to Mindo village at KM? within 2km is a signed turning for the hotel, which is set in grounds of 420ha of good forest. There is a signed trail up the hillside on the entry road on the right and another trail beyond the hotel (these 2 trails join) which then leads far into the valley. Other minor trails are also about and there are hummingbird feeders.
TANDAYAPA 00º15’N 78º38’W 1600m
$3 entry fee for non-residents to bird
On the old Nono-Mindo road coming from Quito at the far side of Tandayapa village (e side), strangely totally unsigned and up a grass track on the right but out of view is Tandayapa Lodge.
TINALANDIA 00º19’S 79º02’W 700-800m
QUITO and surrounding area ECUADOR PICHINCHA
Giant Hummingbird can be found in suburbs of Quito, where there are flowering agave plants.
VERDECOCHA, PICHINCHA VOLCANO (see separate account for bird list) 00º05’ 853’’S 78º36’ 391’’W 2750-3200m montane forest, pasture and degraded forest with introduced trees.
This private reserve and trout farm is located below and adjoins to Yanacocha. Access is from the old stone Nono-Mindo road, which is followed for several km, past the small town of Nono, then take the signed left turning for a waterfall (cascadia). The reserve is 9km along here. The road is very rough in places and much worse from the entrance to the property, 4-wheel drive is recommended or the owner will meet you at the entrance, if you have pre-arranged. Accommodation and meals are available, with very good 3 bedrooms with en suite set in beautiful surroundings with hummingbird feeders all around.
YANACOCHA, PICHINCHA VOLCANO (see separate account for bird list) 00º10’S 78º35’W 3200-3600m, 1,250ha, high altitude montane forest, access to paramo above is possible but actual reserve includes little.
Access is from the old stone Nono-Mindo road, which is followed for several km before a Yanacocha signed left turning through a white-pillar archway. The sign says 10km to reserve. The road is very rough in places and 4-wheel drive is recommended.
Yanacocha is a Fundacion Jocotoco reserve quite near Quito. You can contact the foundation office in Quito or just turn up and pay your entry fee to the 2 guardaparques. If you don't have your own transport, you can hire a pick up to take you up. From the centre of Quito, first go to the area of Cotocollao. Find the plaza (or parque central) and look for pick-ups (camionetas) to take you up. The drivers know the site. The ride up there took about 50 minutes along a bad road (which may be improved in the future) and I managed to haggle the driver down to $12. A camioneta leaves about 5:30 in the morning to the community of Yanacocha near the entrance to the reserve. It may be possible to get a ride up this. Alternatively (if you're a glutton for punishment), you could get on a bus towards Nono and get off at the (signed) turning up towards the reserve, a further 10km uphill. Entrance to the reserve costs $5. There are many hummingbird feeders along the main trail of the reserve where you can see many good species well. I failed to see the critically endangered endemic Black-breasted Puffleg which appears to be present only from December to mid-July. May and June being the best months. At the end of the trail is an area opf forest where I saw Stout-billed Cinclodes and some flowerpiercers. Before this is a fork, the left to a large pipe-tunnel under a hill. Apparently on the far side is some nice paramo habitat. To get back down to Quito, you can take the community truck at about 4pm, but beware, it doesn't go on Tuesdays and Fridays. Alternatively you could walk down to the junction with the Nono road from where you have a better chance to get a bus or hitch. On the walk down, I saw Short-eared Owl.
I saw 26 species including 4 lifers
MINDO BIRDLIST taxonomy follows R.S. Ridgely and P.J. Greenfield 2001 Birds of Ecuador (includes all areas within 40km radius of Mindo village). The list is first given with recommended sites for many species and then the same list is repeated below without sites given so it can be copied and pasted more easily for use in a checklist. This list contains 676 species.
TINAMOUS TINAMIFORMES: Tinamidae (these may not be the only sites, and sites may be seasonal)
Great Tinamou Tinamus major Mangaloma
Tawny-breasted Tinamou Nothocercus julius Yanacocha
Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Mangaloma, Milpe, Rio Silanche
